Royal Air Force Yacht Club

( Mark Breton and Amanda Pirie)

 We were destined for Castelo then about 10 miles out, up came the wind and we were away making ever increasing speed on a beam reach up to about 9knots through the water. Then, as soon as it came - 10 miles past Castelo - it died, so back on with Mr Volvo.

 Now it should be noted that the Coast of North West Spain is affectionately known as the 'Coast of Death' and I'm sure it has a reputation to support this title but in my view, for the current day yachtie the Portuguese coast is the one to treat with greater care. 

 As we approached Povoa the wind returned just when and where we didn't want it, strong, up the chuff and on the approach. The vis' wasn't up to much either so we used the PC with electronic charting (thanks Robbie) and the GPS link (thanks Chris) and we were able view the display on the chart table from the driving position outside allowing control of the auto pilot and engine revs.

 Arrival was not a problem even if lumpy and blowy, however we wondered where on earth we had arrived at when all we could see was a huge casino with vulgar lights.

 We ended upstaying a month once we found that the only place to avoid was the casino. Povoa was real Portugal and cost effective to go with it.  I have never known such helpful and friendly people - anywhere.  Now, for any likely to head this way pay attention:

 Wind in the harbour can be say a gentle East at 10knots, so out go the Rock Stars in shorts, tee shirts and cool shades. Somewhere about lunchtime THE WIND WILL CHANGE, and with a vengeance, starting with direction N to NW maybe a reasonable 15kts building all day and in October I saw it regularly at 30kts at 6pm. This is the 'Nortarde', in the full summer it can reach Force 8 and it doesn't play the game like our sea breeze, it goes on well after dark so what might have started out as a pleasant day's sailing becomes survival. Also I have seen a southerly blow with rain switch to northerly within minutes.  Some very competent cruising people from the Royal Southampton came in with such winds and refused to attempt the vacant berth and went to anchor till morning.

 This is not limited to Povoa but applies to the whole length of the western coast, some ports close when it gets lively. This is normally the result of the swell in shallow water becoming significant, 5 metres is not unusual.

 During our stay we met loads of great cruising people and we decided to listen to advice of the many that (a) our anchor, a CQR, was too light and (b) not suitable, so we ordered a Manson Lloyds approved anchor which we picked up further along. Views (which I am sure many will not support) that say the CQR is now superseded as a design I now think are founded. Speaking to a chap here in the Guadiana, his view was that for the CQR to work, and he relied on one, it needed to be 75 lbs and maybe he's right. I can say that the same chap also said he was surprised that we didn't drag outside Alcoutim as we had anchored in shingle (nobody mentioned to us for 2 days) - ask Amanda about apoplexy !!!!!!

 Things to look for in Povoa and beyond are the municipal markets - we have thrived on them.

Blush in Povoa de Varzim marina

Having met all these great people, they either laid up their boats in Povoa or moved on, so in the end we gave chase.  Now, not fully heeding my own advice above and in fairness with a good forecast of north wind less than 20kts and following swell, we left for Figuera de Foz and even reefed in the harbour.

 Not long into the trip, we found the wind building and the swell bigger than it said on the tin. We were dead down wind, in the jibe zone and started to pick up to speeds over 12kts, which is fine in Round the Island with 8 on board and no such swell. I managed to drop the main and secure it. There was no turning back as Povoa was fully upwind into the swell, which was now probably about 5m and had developed into breaking waves.

 Cruising with only part of the jib poled out seemed fine at 6-8kts and in full control then we were pooped (sea broke into the boat from behind), then pooped a second time filling the cockpit with about 2 feet of water, then what I think was a rogue wave hit us from a new direction - loads more west - and we were both turned and rolled down to about 70 degrees, the benefits of a tiller became obvious here because as the boat turned I automatically pulled on the tiller (auto pilot - you must be joking !) and on reflection kept us out of the worst of it. Internally all was secure and no water got in but one book shelf let go some books and on top of the pile on the cabin sole was the First Aid Manual! Could have been worse as the Bible remained in place !!!!!

 Arriving at Figuera de Foz, which we thought would be sheltered but actually only was in part, so we arrived at speed with the swell and the depth indicated faded to zero at the entrance - again no bail out option and clearly recalling that the pilot guide said dredged to 5m. Close eyes and proceed - well we didn't touch which at 9kts was a good thing. Figuera is an interesting place but we didn't loiter long and set off again to Cascais near Lisbon.

 Cascais is a modern well kept marina with posey shops selling things you don't need and lots of bars and cafes.  On a yearly cost basis it's close to Hamble marina prices but the day rate is a lot better. Here we took the train to Lisbon which is a great place, and also picked up the Manson anchor which we put to the test as soon as possible. We said cheerio to a number of people at Cascais as it was a departure point for the ARC boats with whom we had been cruising.

The fort in Lisbon - Mark has a picture sat on the same cannon from 30 years ago

We set out from the anchorage to Nazare, which is reputed to never close as it has deep water almost up to the entrance and depths of 600m are found close inshore which are reported to prevent the killer swell developing.

My view of Nazare is not as favourable as some although we received a warm welcome from Capt Mike Hadley, all who have been there will know him, but the un-piled marina (no anchoring option) is rickety and I think would break up in a major storm. The harbour compound was - when we were there- overrun with stray dogs. Overnight there were constant dogfights with howls, growls, barking and yelps from these lonely creatures. BUT they are pack animals and when I was forced to pay the gateman our marina fee at first light I fell victim to the packs of dogs although I was not bitten I was not happy. Also the gate dog was reputed to be a dingo - well it was very big and its head was up to my hip - all very funny afterwards but I was not amused.  Overall - nice resort but the marina ain't up to much even for dog lovers!

 We were pleased to get away and made passage to Sines (pronounced Synch) which from a port point of view could be twinned with Fawley, but that's where it ends. No refinery smell there, the town boasts many holiday homes and old fashioned streets like Povoa and to Amanda's delight there was a great laundry in the Marina. We did use the marina but also anchored off the splendid beach before departing on yet another failed sailing attempt, as we left on a perfect beam breeze making 8 kts steady then as per normal the wind faded and went behind us, putting us back on the metal sail.

Fort at Sines                                          

View from Fort at Sines

We rounded Cape St Vincent and motored along our first bit of Algarve, seeing Henry the Navigator's fort from seaward and putting into Baleeira.  Baleeira is a lovely little harbour - no marina - anchoring reputed to be on foul ground but we did not notice any problem (see Manson Supreme). We walked up the hill and found our way to both the nearby supermarket and the municipal market. Reality check - we were in Brit land, the supermarket had many Brit products at vastly inflated prices and the lady serving us in the municipal market had clearly dealt with stroppy Brits as she firmly explained that the oranges were sharp and don't bring them back!

 Baleeira Harbour  

  Alvor

The Algarve is the place to go for fish'n'chips, mushy peas, Pukka pies and ghastly buildings. Most harbours are open to the South and I can't say I thought much of any of them. In Portimao yacht club I tried to order the drinks and plate of the day in Portuguese but realised my language was not that good so said so the bar maid who said back in a northern accent 'eeee yurr alreet luv'!

 Alvor is an interesting place to go to, however the entrance is shallow and with any swell running a tad hazardous, inside the entrance the flood tide runs at about 3kts and there are a couple of channel markers but passing them correctly is optional as the sands move and we followed the indicated channel but went hard aground (spotter needs to mention the sea colour has changed to a sandy colour!) but this is where Red Donnelly mentions going aground 5 times I think) we got off and continued in and anchored in a very pleasant anchorage. Amanda summed the place up as Newtown Creek meets Weymouth which is a fair cop as the bars are all Brit driven with all of the traits of Weymouth. The rebuilt promenade had a number of bars on it but the staff would appear to be Eastern European rather then Portuguese.

 We spoke at length with other boats about departing South to Morocco but in the end stayed on the Portuguese coast. This was probably a mistake from the weather aspect as those that did were pinned in for 10 days but then progressed on to the Canaries and we did not.

 Faro is an interesting place but the anchorage close to the town is challenging and the dreaded pot markers near us turned out to be marking 2 wrecks!  In Faro we managed to get our Calor gas tanks refilled (one of the reasons for going there) so that was a success, but the wind was strong and due to turn which would have put us in a vulnerable position, so we chose to leave but came back and took a commercial tug's mooring (imagine that in Southampton Water!!) leaving the next morning for the Guadiana.

 We cleared the Faro entrance and were on course for all of 5 minutes as we pounded into the waves making 4kts on a hard beat, so we went about and had a good sail west to Albufeira.  A curious place, known as Legoland, but safe and sheltered. We found both the municipal Market and Lidl after a long route march.  Leaving there we sailed back to Faro and anchored off Culatra, which was really peaceful and more time is needed to explore further, but we needed the wind window so pressed on to the Guadiana river which forms part of the boundary between Portugal and Spain.

 The Guadiana

 Entering the Guadiana needs to be done with care as it has silted up and unless you manage to follow a large fishing boat in it is all too easy to go aground. The entrance to Vila Real marina can be very challenging as up to 3 knots runs across the entrance which is only 20m wide, manoeuvring inside is even more testing and nearly got the better of us on one occasion. The town is far more Portugal than other places on the Algarve although there are many other Europeans about.  The Spanish town of Ayamonte is a few hundred yards away or €1.45 on the ferry. Neither marina is brilliant but both have showers and are safe once inside.

 Going up river is a must if you get this far and passing under the new suspension bridge is testing for nerves - we think we had 1 m clearance but at a boat length away with a full flood tide under it really looks like a call to the insurance company comes next - but no problem in the end. The noise the bridge makes is like 1000 birds screeching but it's just the cables talking in the wind. The first time up we gingerly motored all the way but since we have sailed both ways.

 Upriver there are a couple of small villages with pontoons en route, notably short of cleats! There are no facilities at these towns so we pressed on to Alcutim with Sanluca opposite on the Spanish side about 20 miles upriver. The distance across is similar to the Hamble - Warsash crossing with ferries costing €1 a time. Spain is on different time being one hour ahead of Portugal which is on GMT - confusing with the church bells and increased river traffic (dinghies) at Spanish closing time!

 Shopping is an experience! On the Portuguese side it's a bit like Arkwright's shop in Open All Hours. There are a further 2 shops, one of which doesn't turn the lights on until you fall over - we managed to buy a loaf there which turned out to be 2 months out of date! Win for the ducks.....  No fresh meats available until the market on Saturdays if the meat van turns up. The Spanish side is little different with another shop that doesn't turn the lights on but the produce is better and the 2nd shop does have some fresh meats so shopping both sides tends to be needed.

 Socially Portugal is the better option with wine being €0.5 a glass in the bar, full lunch with a bottle of wine €16 for the two of us.

 There's a fairly fixed crowd of residential boat types on the river, most of whom will never go further even though we have had the coldest winter in 60 years with ice on deck. Anchoring is very testing as the river flows fast on the ebb (3kts regularly), the bottom is shale and the banks have cane growing wild which gets into the stream and forms a large moustache across the anchor chain - this can be 10 feet each side and a foot or more deep and that adds a load to the anchor, then add 20kts of wind and problems are predictable.  We have seen several boats on the move as a result of that.

 We tried to go further up river to the iron works quay at Pomerao, no longer used due to silting, however we got within sight of the quay and went aground so we don't recommend it without local knowledge or a boat with a lot less draft. Others got right up river to Mertola but that's right out for us and the people that did hit a rock - benefit of a steel boat I guess.

 Back down at Alcutim there are castles on both sides with the Spanish one being dominant but un-restored and quite tumble down but good exercise to walk up to.

The Portuguese fort is restored to some extent and a charge is made for entry.

Spanish fort from Blush                       

View from Spanish fort with Sanluca foreground, Blush at anchor and Alcutim, Portugal across the river